Scenic Winter Vista

I first discovered this point several years ago when I was hiking up Huntsmans Ridge in the summer.  After reaching the ridge, I saw a game trail leading down it, and followed that out to the end, where one is treated to a nearly 360 degree view.  To the north, you can see Mt. Sopris, and to the south, the North Fork (of the Gunnison) valley.  This shot is taken to the southeast, with (from left to right) Treasure Mountain, Ragged Mountain, and Chair Mountain most prominent.  You also get a nice view of the Crystal River Valley at the bend where the settlement of Placita used to exist.

I never dreamed of being able to enjoy this view in winter, but was able to reach it by snowshoes this weekend.  I broke a lot of trail on Saturday, so when I returned on Sunday, was able to go even higher.  I would have liked to shoot this from closer to the edge, but didn't want to risk having the cornice give way, and take me on an express ride to the bottom.

Huntsmans Ridge can be reached from McClure Pass, near Marble and Redstone, Colorado, a half hour north of Paonia.  The trail runs north of the pass, while to the south is Ragged Mountain Road, an easier and thus more traveled route.

Snowshoeing fun!

Combining ten photos into a gif file made this interesting "mini movie" of Mark and Angela descending on snowshoes.

Click on the image if it's not animating for you.

Snowshoeing up Huntsmans Ridge

After crossing this clearing, I heard some voices behind me, and descended a few yards so I could capture this photo.  Despite temperatures just below freezing, the sun and hard work of climbing a thousand feet through deep snow warm you up quickly, making a t-shirt the only thing you need to wear.  When I return to the ridge today, I'm bringing a dry shirt to put on when I get to the top.

I broke several miles of trail yesterday, and see no reason not to take advantage of that by following in my own footsteps today.  I'll probably seek out some fresh snow for part of my descent, as running down a snow-covered mountainside in snowshoes is almost as much fun as skiing down it (and much easier when the snow is thick and heavy).

Snowshoeing on Huntsmans Ridge

Midway between Redstone and Marble, Colorado, in the Crystal River Valley, is the road to McClure Pass.  From the top of the pass, Forest Service roads run north and south.  The southern route is Ragged Mountain Road.  To the north is Huntsmans Ridge.  The latter offers great views of the Crystal River valley, Chair Mountain and the Raggeds (as well as Treasure Mountain, just outside of Marble), and continues around the south and west sides of the Coal Basin.

Most foot traffic, including skiers and snowshoers, follows the easier Ragged Mountain Road.  While pleasant enough of a hike, the views and experience, in my opinion, are superior on Huntsmans Ridge.  Climbing about 1,000 feet per mile, it's relatively steep, but that's just what my friend Dana calls "efficient."

Today, I was able to follow the tracks of backcountry skiers who had skinned up much of the way.  From then on, I was breaking trail, which wasn't too bad, because I didn't sink so much in the heavy snow that fell this past week.  The trees were blanketed in snow, which made for some interesting photos.  The views were spectacular.  I think I'll go back up there tomorrow.

Winterscape with mountain and river

Chair Mountain, lit by the morning sun, is reflected in the Crystal River one winter day in Colorado.

One of my favorite places to shoot, this bend in the river is known as Placita, and is midway between Redstone and Marble, Colorado.

Winter travel in the mountains - stay low or gear up

 The onset of winter makes it more challenging to reach the backcountry.  Snowshoes are my favorite means of venturing out in winter, even if I can't get nearly as far as I can on snow-free trails in the summer. 

We've received several feet of snow so far, but settling, melting, and evaporation mean that you can get around pretty well with just boots below 9,000 feet.  Above that, I think skis or snowshoes are the way to go.

You may recognize the location of these photos, as the bend in the Crystal River below Chair Mountain is one of my favorite places to shoot any time of year.  We had a one-day break in the winter storms, and I went out yesterday morning to capture many images.

Colorado's colors of autumn

 

One thing I've learned in the nine years I've been photographing the fall colors here in Colorado is that the best photographs are ones in which the photo would be a good photo in any season.  The addition of color just makes it better.  The mistake some people make is to see some trees with nice colors and photograph those.  But if they were just green, you wouldn't take the shot.  Therefore, you ought to reconsider shooting it in the fall.  The two shots here are from a couple of my favorite places around Marble, Colorado, in the Crystal River valley.

Yule Creek Valley after the season's first winter storm

The Yule Creek trail starts a couple miles south of Marble, Colorado, at 9,000 feet.  This overlook, above Thompson Flats, is almost exactly 10,000 feet above sea level, and offers an incredible view of the hanging valley and bordering peaks of the Raggeds Wilderness area.

Colorado's Yule Creek

Yule Creek, in the Raggeds Wilderness south of Marble, Colorado, is one of my favorite hikes. 

A relatively steep trail for the first mile, it moderates just before reaching an overlook above Thompson Flats.  The view there is one of the best you'll find.

The trail then descends a few hundred feet to cross the creek, and is quite easy to hike as it works its way up toward Yule Pass.  Many rapids and waterfalls along the way make it a very scenic hike with lots of photo opportunities

I had heard there was a trail from the quarry up to Thompson Flats, and so on our descent, we stayed on the east side of the creek and followed an easy trail down.  We didn't notice the crossing at first, and found ourselves bushwhacking around the willows and stinging nettle until we returned and crossed over to the west side for the rest of the descent.  When we reached the quarry, I recognized the area from taking visitors there.  Since I was last in the area, however, a private homeowner erected a barricade which we had to scale to get back on the quarry road and down to the car.

Mormon Lake in the Holy Cross Wilderness Area

The hike to Lyle and Mormon lakes is one of our favorites.  Previously we did it as a day hike, but this time we camped at Lyle Lake, allowing us to photograph both lakes in the morning.

Lyle and Mormon lakes are in the Holy Cross Wilderness Area of Colorado.  The trailhead is on the road to Hagerman Pass, in the Fryingpan River valley.

Lower Savage Lake, Holy Cross Wilderness Area

Savage Lakes are in the Holy Cross Wilderness area.  The trailhead is east of Ruedi Reservoir, in the Fryingpan Valley.

If you go, consider the Savage-Carter loop.  Though not "an inventoried trail," there is a way down from Carter Lake, so you don't need to backtrack.

The trailhead to Savage Lakes is near the end of a dirt road that branches off to your left as you head up the Fryingpan River valley east of Thomasville.

hidden falls

I call this the "hidden waterfall" because it's relatively unknown to most people in the area.  I lived here for eight years before exploring a trail by which I drove almost daily.  It's also a seasonal waterfall, fed by spring melt-off, and flows just a few weeks each year.  It's hard to capture in a photo, but that tiny sliver of water at the top of the frame is nearly a hundred feet above me.

Springtime in the Colorado desert

Returning to the Colorado National Monument yesterday, we saw cactus flowers beginning to bloom.  They'll peak out later this month.

Beaver Lake in Marble, Colorado

It won't be long before we'll be able to travel past Beaver Lake into Lead King Basin.  For now, however, this is the end of the road.  A late April, early May storm is leaving lots of snow behind, even though much of it melts as the sun comes out in between squalls.  It was during one of these breaks yesterday morning that I drove into Marble to get some shots of the cloud-shrouded mountains reflected in both Beaver Lake and the pond downstream of town.

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison

I think we'll start coming here several times a year, as the spectacular views are so invigorating, and the challenge of capturing the majesty of the place in a photograph is calling us.

Today we hiked out to Exclamation Point, and got there around mid-day, when the sun was lighting the bottom of the canyon.  This may be a good late day hike, as the western sun might do the same thing.

The Crystal River Valley

Connecting Marble to Redstone to Carbondale, Colorado, the Crystal River Valley is one of the most scenic areas in Colorado.  A snowstorm last night gave everything a fresh white coating, and the parting clouds this morning stand out great against the blue sky.

The Colorado National Monument

West of Grand Junction, Colorado, the Colorado National Monument is a great example of desert landscape.  Canyons, mesas, cacti, lizards, sagebrush, juniper, and lots of great rocks greet visitors. 

Spring is "mud season" in the mountains, so we like hitting the desert this time of year.  The temperatures are near-perfect in April and May, and many plants are blooming. 

You should stay on the trail, so as not to disturb the fragile environment.  Cryptobiotic soil is fascinating but easily disturbed.  For this shot, I did leave the trail, walking up a wash a few yards.  There's no cryptobiotic soil in the bottom of a wash, because of the spring run-off, so I didn't have that worry.

The seasonal waterfall in the canyon south of Redstone, Colorado

Three miles south of Redstone, Colorado, in a narrow canyon, there's a seasonal waterfall that flows for just a few months each year.  When it flows, it can really gush.  It began late this year, last Friday, and the warm weather this weekend may help it reach peak quickly.

All around the Crystal River valley there are seasonal streams.  The run-off from melting snow is why they call this time of year the "mud season."  That's the season between ski season (or snowshoe season) and summer hiking season. 

This is a great time to head to the desert.  It's not nearly as hot there as it would be in the summer, and some cacti may be flowering.  We'll head to the canyons around Grand Junction next weekend, and I'll post photos of our hikes here.

Colorado riverscape in both color and black & white

We carried our snowshoes down to the river this morning, thinking they would be needed in the deep snow.  However, the freeze/thaw cycles of the last couple weeks left the surface rather firm, and we were able to get around quite easily with just boots.  If this condition exists at higher elevations, we might be able to get into the deep backcountry much earlier this spring.

So we carried our snowshoes, instead of wearing them, and set them down to take photos along the Crystal River.  This shot, below Chair Mountain, is at one of those bends in the river where you can walk out into the stream this time of year.

I love this view!

Of course there are thousands of views I love.  Colorado is one of the most spectacular places to hike, backpack, ski, snowshoe.... or just live. 

The scene above is looking southeast towards the Ragged Mountain chain, with Chair Mountain on the right.  I took this from just below McClure Pass, on Highway 133, between Redstone and Marble, Colorado.

The longer days mean more photo ops, and I may be coming in late to work if the conditions warrant it.  Spring is a time for fog in the Crystal River valley, and foggy mornings can produce incredible landscape images.

Snowshoeing is the way to go

Snowshoeing was much easier this weekend, as we enjoyed the warmest weather since November.  The snow was much more settled, and we didn't have to wear nearly as much clothing. 

A friend took us to visit some friends of his.  Their house is accesible only by snowshoe and snowmobile in the winter.  We parked by the road and hiked about a third of a mile uphill.  Then we went farther up with our hosts, exploring the landscape high above the river.

Snowshoeing in the Colorado winter landscape

Even with snowshoes on, we were sinking over a foot deep in the snow.  Had we been wearing only boots, I can't imagine how difficult it would have been to travel very far.  The cold weather this winter is preserving the snow and keeping it light and fluffy.  I was really surprised it hadn't settled more.

Starting  near the Bogan Flats group camp, downstream of Marble, Colorado, we traveled up the Crystal River until the steep slope turned us back.  A snow squall was fully upon us by the time we returned to the car.  Earlier the area was bathed in sunshine. 

The winter landscape, especially when the blue skies are obscured by clouds, is rather monochromatic.  Thus shooting landscapes in black and white, instead of color, just seems like a natural thing to do.  I like the results.

Chair Mountain and the Crystal River valley

This area sees a decent amount of visitors in the summer, and seems mobbed in autumn, when the aspens are in full color, but winter is pretty quiet.  Exploring this bend in the river, below McClure Pass, is one of my favorite activities when I'm not in the mood to travel far.  The trail was packed enough that you could walk it in boots, but the deep snow made for quite a challenge when I stepped off the trail.  I think I'll wear snowshoes the next time I go down there.

Snowshoeing in the Raggeds Wilderness

Starting at Erickson Springs, we snowshoed up Anthracite Creek into the Raggeds Wilderness Area.  This trail is called Dark Canyon, probably because the steep sides prevent the winter sun from reaching the bottom.  The photo above was taken after we came out of the canyon, and is looking westward, or downstream.

Erickson Springs is between Kebler Pass and the Paonia Dam, in western Colorado.

Camping Cuisine

Of all the aspects of camping, none has more variety of preferences than food.  I've seen some guys, in an effort to keep their packs light, carry just enough food to sustain them for the duration of the trip.  Others ignore the weight in order to "dine in style" on the trail.  Some opt for convenience, while others are willing to actually cook (and clean up from) a meal.  This shouldn't be surprising, as food tastes in homes and restaurants vary widely. 

What you do, therefore, will depend on your own preferences.  I'll let you know what I've done in the past, and offer considerations and options for your trips.  First of all, weight is important.  The longer your trip (both in days and miles), the more you'll appreciate keeping your pack weight in a reasonable range.  Advances in camping equipment technology and design have made available some really fantastic products, such as lightweight stoves and water filters, so you can focus on the food itself when managing how much space and weight are used for meals.

Since water availability is a prime consideration in choosing camping spots, dry and dried foods are a great way of travelling light.  Fresh fruit and vegetables (e.g. apples and carrots) should be eaten early in the trip, as they have a lot of water, and often suffer from too much jostling in your pack.  High energy foods, like peanut butter, provide a lot of calories and satisfaction in a small package.

For breakfast, some options include instant oatmeal with dried fruit, granola and milk (lowfat milk, in powder form is good for both cereal and your coffee), or even breakfast bars for maximum convenience.

While we've set up the stove and made ramen noodle soup for lunch, we usually opt for a cold meal.  Crackers or a dense bread travel well.  Top them with peanut butter, cheese, salami, or even hummous (some good mixes are available).  Adding fruit, fresh or dried, to the meal makes it complete.

For dinner, we always enjoy the new dehydrated meals.  Unlike their early predessors, these have good flavor and  decent textures.  Most need no cooking, and can be rehydrated right in the bag, making clean up very easy.  Because of the convenience of these meals, products like the JetBoil, an integrated stove and pot combination designed for the sole purpose of bringing two cups of water to a boil, are increasingly popular.  Adding hot water to dried fruit mix creates a tasty dessert much like fruit compote.  Hot drinks, like tea and cider, complete your evening meal.

Another reason your travels benefit from good maps

I recommend you carry a good map when you travel, mostly so you don't get lost.  But there are other benefits too.  I remember a vacation in Maine, when we saw something from a bridge and wondered what it was.  The map identified it as Fort Knox, from where the Penobscott River was guarded from the British.

Back to the present, and my friends and I looking for a good photo hike on New Year's Day.  My newest map showed a small parcel of BLM land a few miles up Cattle Creek.  Down the west side flowed Fisher Creek, and along this a trail led up the valley. 

After about a mile and a half of hiking, I saw a rectangular shape across a large meadow.  It didn't look natural, and I traversed an old barbed wire fence to get back to the trail and work my way towards this object.  Getting closer, I could see it was a long-abondoned ranch at the confluence of three small creeks.  There were several structures and parts of an old corral still fighting in vain against gravity and weather.  The various textures and patterns kept our attention - and shutters - rapt for over an hour.

It was a great hike, and one to which I'm sure we'll return again.